Andy Markelz - Peace Corps

Weekend up North

Chelsea and crew
Originally uploaded by amarkelz.

It was a good trip up to North Tarawa this weekend. I got to visit with most of the trainees and observed a couple of them while they were doing some presentations for technical training. They all seem to be in good spirits but definitely feeling the exhaustion that ultimately training brings about.

The trip across the lagoon to head up there on Thursday turned out to be an extended adventure. I was in an aluminum skiff with one other staff member while another staff member motored his canoe along side us. It has been storming all day but calmed down about 3:00 in the afternoon. We left about 4:30, thinking the lagoon was calm and it would take the usual hour to arrive. As soon as we left, though, the wind picked up and the lagoon got choppy. We were heading into the wind so the going was slow. Three hours later its getting really dark and we haven't arrived. So, we start hugging the coast because its too stormy out deeper and its too dark to see. Then the inevitable happens, we hit bottom because the tide has been going out. And guess what? We hadn't arrived. So, we tie up the boats and start walking. About an hour and a half later we finally arrive at our final destination. Doing the Math, it took about four and half hours . . . that has to be some kind of record!

Stormy Weather

Stormy Weather
Originally uploaded by amarkelz.

Sea levels rising . . . Kiribati no likey!

This weekend an exceptionally high tide combined with a severe storm was too much for Kiribati’s mighty elevation of 3-6ft causing flooding, severe causeway damage and ever increasing costal erosion. Usually there is little damage during a King tide, however, an unusually strong storm this weekend pushed the sea level up just enough to tip over the causeways and into peoples homes. Actually, if you know Kiribati, everybody lives on a ‘buia’ which doubles quite well as many found out this weekend as a boardwalk. Ground water contamination, however, remains a pressing issue, and this weekend’s events only strengthen the consequence of inaction.

Due to stormy seas, yours truly and boat company did not wish to spend our Saturday bouncing around in the deep blue in the driving rain in search of fish that were not there. So, I spent it in the comforts of inside watching CNN and catching up on the news (in fact I watched about five minutes before I got depressed and changed to the discovery channel.)

Despite the weather, nevertheless, it was a good four day weekend. K33 has been and a few more will be coming into Tarawa this week for their Mid-Service Conference, K35 remains up North in the heart of Training, and look . . . here comes the sun!

Footsteps on Nonouti

Footsteps
Originally uploaded by amarkelz.

One more island under my belt and that is the island of Nonouti. I went to follow up on the site development of a K35 Volunteer soon to be placed there in November; and a site development is always tied with a site visit to the current Volunteers on that island. So, I got to spend the week with my buddies Dave and Nick as they showed my life Nonouti-style.

It was definitely a good week as I got all business related material done and had some time for pleasure. As you can see from the photos, the K35 house is nearly finished and that community anxiously awaits his or her arrival. And, Dave and Nick are both doing well in their communities and schools so everything is well on that front. As for pleasure, I couldn’t have gone to Nonouti without making a trip to Bird Island . . . especially for those yummy-yummy dinosaur looking eggs. Now, Dave was saying these birds are “endangered”, but before any of you animal activist get all in a huffy, I don’t think that’s true. This islet just happens to be the only place in this general area where this particular bird likes to lay eggs. And we don’t want this islet to get overpopulated with these birds possibly causing some sort of outbreak wiping out the entire islet, now do we? So, let’s consider it population control. And if they’re dumb enough to lay their eggs on the ground where anybody can pick ‘em up and enjoy their florescent orange tasty insides . . . well, that’s Darwinism for ya . . . I await your hate mail . . .

So I got a four day weekend coming up (gotta love the observation of Kiribati and US holidays). I believe this might be a fishing competition weekend. I’ve missed the past couple competitions due to traveling on the weekends, so it will be nice to get back on the water and possible hook-up a monster.

This is how we roll

This is how we roll
Originally uploaded by amarkelz.

The big move up to North Tarawa wasn’t quite as big as suspected due to Air Kiribati being grounded and stranding half of the trainee group out on HVV. But for those who did make it back training continued as planned. We loaded up the MV Janeen on Saturday, which is new and nice. As you can see from the photos it has a roof . . . and a brilliant concept that was. No more scorching trips back and forth; we’re traveling in style!

About an hour after departure we landed at the Training center in Abaokoro and formed the human chain to unload everything onto the beach. After that was taken care of the trainees were loaded up into trucks in relation to the villages they would be staying and then dropped off at their host families’ houses. Riding with the Trainees to their host families is always entertaining to me because I remember the same trip and feeling the same anxiousness/nervousness/excitement/etc that everyone feels. Here you are finally being separated individually from the group for the first time that has done it all together thus far; placed with people you don’t know and have limited language abilities to communicate, and then being told, “See ya in a couple days.” These are definitely days of uncomfortable-ness and awkward smiling at each other. But if there’s any feeling you get use to here it’s got to be the sense of feeling awkward and uncomfortable. It comes with the job and if you didn’t know that before, you figure it out pretty quick.

I, on the other hand, love going back up for training to see my host family again and live the outer island life-style. It’s so much more laid back . . . but I guess not having four hours of language lessons a day frees-up my time a little more than what the trainees have.

We had three Trainees come back from HVV from the Northern Islands by boat on Sunday, so we sent them up to North Tarawa yesterday to join the group, leaving us three Trainees down in the Southern Islands who will either come back by boat or plane this week depending which comes first; and those will be sent up to North upon their arrival. Then the group will be complete and training can get back on course. I am supposedly heading to Nonouti tomorrow for another site visit/development. I’m pleased to be visiting my buddies K34 Nick and K32 Dave down there and seeing how they do it Nonouti style. My previous visits have all been to females (proportionally correct when considering the male to female Volunteer ratio) and there’s nothing wrong with the ladies. Gender roles here, however, are reasonably defined in Kiribati and it will be good to go out and do the . . . the male thang (if you know what I mean!)

To the Families and Friends

Walking Home from School
Originally uploaded by amarkelz.

I have noticed an extreme upsurge in my blog and photo hits these past few weeks and I can only associate this with the arrival of K35 and word of mouth advertisement among their families and friends. So, being the accommodating PCVL that I am, I have decided to please my new and upcoming audience with an entry focusing on their interests. I must, however, commence with an apology for the lack of photos that I know everyone loves to view. I have come to the realization that I just don’t take many photos and no matter how many times I bring my camera along it rarely ever seems to find its way out of the case.

But never fear, what I can do is provide an update of the recent happenings in Kiribati. After moving into the Lagoon Breeze Hotel, training hit the ground running. After the necessary introductions concluded; language, cross-cultural, and technical sessions began. The foundation had to be laid before they went out on HVV (Host Volunteer Visits). Currently all the trainees are out of South Tarawa and on outer islands getting a glimpse. Looking back at my training, I realize that this part is extremely beneficial and enjoyable. They went out in small groups to vairous islands to live with a current volunteer for a week. During this time they have language, cross-cultural and technical activities to complete, but, mostly this time is dedicated for the trainees to see what life will be like after training concludes and really contemplate the two year commitment they will agree to at swearing-in. Because lets face it, they get pretty babied during PST (Pre-Service Training), and the constant structure provided does not exist AT ALL in reality. So they’re all out there currently in the land of no chairs and no air conditioning, pulling their own water, washing clothes by hand . . . and quite possibly poopin’ on the beach. Beneficial and enjoyable I remember, but to some, eye-opening for sure!

They will be coming back this week where debriefing will take place along with preparations for the big move on the big canoe across the lagoon to North Tarawa on Saturday. That’s where they will be divided amongst three villages and placed with host families for better or for worse.

I will be hopping back and forth from North and South Tarawa while also squeezing in a trip to Nonouti during this time. So, more updates to come.

They're Here

They're Here
Originally uploaded by amarkelz.

K35 arrived Thursday and as you can see, a strong and fine looking group they are. This is the classic photo of every group that arrives in Kiribati. After spending an hour going through customs and waiting to get their luggage, they come out of the gate, get a garland put on and a chilled 'moimoto' (young coconut) to drink. Any volunteers that are in South usually come and chat with the newbies. Its always fun to see how excited they are to finally be here, yet at the same time messed up from the two days of traveling and realizing that they are finally here. What I particularily like about this photo is the letters missing in 'international airport' in the back ground . . . go Kiribati! So they've been here a couple days and have been partaking in sessions with some introductions into the language and are starting to gain their footing; that is until we rip the carpet back out from under them when we go up to North Tarawa for the meat of training.

Today is Sunday and the day of rest, but that just means a little bit of rest for us. This afternoon we are all heading up to a swimming spot where they can have a water saftey session but then swim around and jump off the bridge that's there. I just recently discovered how fun this spot is, especially with the bridge that gives you a pretty good fall. So this will be the first time the trainees have been able to experience the warm waters of Kiribati. I think it will be a good time.

Quick Update

I haven't posted anything lately so you might be asking yourself, "what's new in Kiribati?"  And that's basically why I haven't posted because there isn't a whole lot going on at this moment, but that's sure to change come Thursday and the new trainees' arrival.  Ever since I came back from Nikunau its been office work for K34's In-service training and other small 'bubuti(s)' from volunteers at their sites.  So things have been pretty quiet.

There was another exciting game of softball (USA vs Taiwan) that went down this weekend in continuation of our ongoing series.  At the onset of dark we ended up in a 11-11 tie, which was good because it was a very exciting game and everyone ended up a winner. 

Its labor day here so that means this guy is partaking in no labor intensive activities.  After playing around on the computer a little bit I plan on heading home to get some reading done.  I seriously fell out of my concentrated reading schedule when I moved to Tarawa.  It must be all these distractions in the 'big' city. 

To all of you out there living in my yesterday, have a great labor day.

Tuna!

Tuna!
Originally uploaded by amarkelz.

I'm back from Nikunau and a great week it was! As you can see here's me with a yellow fin tuna that I caught on a hand line. In total, Evelyn (K33) and I pulled in 12 fish in only a couple hours, mostly skip-jack, and boy did our hands show for it (gloves are recommended for handline fishing.) So, ever since I was young I remember going out fishing with Dad and whenever he hooked-up, he'd start yelling, "Tuna!! Tuna!!" But it was fishing in Alaska so there was definitely no Tuna. Halibut, salmon, 12 inch dollies . . . it didn't matter, it was always, "Tuna!! Tuna!!" Well this was the first tuna I ever caught so you're damn right I was yelling TUNA!!!

And get this . . . so we go trolling towards a huge flock of birds feeding on the surface, so that means big fish underneath. As we troll through, Evelyn and I get a double hook-up (it was pretty common that day) but these fish were bigger than what we had been getting. As my hand almost gets ripped off and me pulled out of the boat I see Evelyn on the otherside in a similar situation. But just then my line breaks. One of our guides grabs Evelyn's line and starts helping her out. After fighting this thing for a little while they get it next to the boat and what is it? A five foot shark! Just as I think to myself, "that's a big shark, and how the hell are we going to get that into this dinky boat with our bare hands," the line breaks. Unfortunately we didn't have any wire leader for shark fishing, because there were several around us. So we had a double shark hook-up which was exciting. All in all it was a great week. And I have to thank Evelyn for the wonderful company, hospitality and well stocked food safe!

Concerning future plans I'm here in Tarawa for awhile now. The K35 trainers will be coming next week to prepare for the K35 Trainees arrival in September. So it looks like I'll be setting travel mode aside for awhile and re-entering training mode. That's all for now.

Tiabo Kuria

I'm back from Kuria with a few photos to share.  What a fun island with a great vibe!  We have currently three female volunteers there who are all rockin' it.  Its interesting and enjoyable for me to hop in and out of numerous volunteers lives and, in reality, little worlds that they live in.  One thing I hadn't experienced, until last week, was the validity of the central islands claim to fame . . . dirty talk!  I can now honestly say that yes, those central islands love their dirty talk.  And by dirty talk I mean . . .ehem . . . sexual talk.  These people are quite crude and although they rarely say the actual word for certain areas of the body they have secret lingo that you know means something sexual but not quite sure what.  For example: The cleanliness of females pumkins are always a topic of conversation (understand dirty talk is only used for joking purposes) but when I first got there I really wasn't sure what the pumkin represented.  Of course it didn't take me long to figure out it stands for a females . . . ehem . . . southern region, because hey, anatomically I don't see the similarities.  Now a banana and a guy . . . well that ones a know brainer. 

So besides the work aspect of my travels I basically spent those five days learning how to talk dirty in Kiribati.  And now I'm sharing this with you.  Now that's what I call cross-cultural exchange!!!

And I'm off again to the Southern region of Kiribati on Monday.  This time I'll be visiting the island known to volunteers as the Botaki island.  Nikunau is the name and the botaki is its game.  Especially with a K31 volunteer COSing (Closing of Service) its going to be really botaki crazy.  But hey, I'm ready.  After two and a half years of service I'm like a Jedi master at sitting cross-legged . . . even buddha has got nothing on me!  I'll be back next Monday (Air Kirbati pending . . . of course)

Tabiteuea South Visit

I'm back from Tabiteuea but only for a couple days.  I'm heading down to Kuria this Friday to do the same thing; visit volunteers and develop sites for the K35ers.  I had an excellent time in Tab South.  This was my first site visit/development and my first time further South than Tarawa.  As for the work aspect of my trip I'd say it went quite well.  I met with with two villages and three families from each of those villages to determine where the incoming volunteer will be located.  I can only hope now that the incoming volunteer will find their community and family both rewarding and enjoyable.  The house hasn't been built yet but I know for sure that it will have prime beach front property.  I also met with the three volunteers that are currently serving in Tab South and with their communities, teachers and counterparts.  So it was a pretty busy week running around between villages for meetings and botaki(s) yet personally and professionally satisfying.  I took a fair amount of photos (uncharacteristically) and I'm trying to upload them as I type, however, flickr is taking an extremely long time to upload, so I might have to try tomorrow. 

As for the Island of Tabiteuea it was interesting to see the subtle differences compared to my island, Butaritari.  Some of the differences were not that subtle, mainly the vegetation.  Butaritari is so lush that no other island can compare, especially the hot and rain deprived Southern Islands.  But its was good to see that Kiribati people are Kiribati people all over and wonderful people they are.  I was only there for a week and I felt like everyone knew my name and that I was a part of their community.  Speaking Kiribati and knowing the cultural obviously made that process almost immediate for me, and  this is what all volunteers who complete their service come to know and cherish endlessly. 

So I'll work on getting all my pictures updated for you all to see, and I'll be writing next about the Island of Kuria.